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Dates: March 16 - March 30
General Information: Joshua Tree is the traditional climbers paradise. Thousands come here every winter to checkout the cracks, runout slabs and spicy mixed routes. Joshua Tree has over 7,000 established routes. Yet, it holds a plethora of FA left to discover for those willing to make the effort.
Decision:After sport climbing in Mexico, and bouldering in Hueco we’ll need to prepare for the Big Stone which is next on our itinerary. Joshua Tree is considered the best traditional climbing area, plus, on some accounts, it considered to be the training grounds for the free climbing revolution. The climbing history is so deep here… I didn’t even think twice. This is a must stop for climbing.
Time:15 days seemed like a good time to get prepared for the trad that we’ll encounter in Yosemite.
Classics:Double Cross 5.7, Sail Away 5.8, Touch’n Go 5.9, Solid Gold 5.10a, Clean and Jerk 5.10b, Illusion Dweller 5.10b, Figures… 5.10, O’Kelley’s Crack 5.10c, More Monkey… 5.11, Wangerbanger 5.11c, Leave It to Beaver 5.12a, Equinox 5.12d, Father Figure 5.12d, Pumping Hate 5.13a, Hydra 5.13c/d, Dihedron 5.14a; Bouldering: Slashface B1-, Gunsmoke Traverse B1-, Stem Gem B1, White Rastafarian B1, How’s your Mama B1, Orange Julius B1+, Gunsmoke B1+, Planter X B1+, Streetcar Named Desire B2-, So High B2, Caveman B2, Scatterbrain B2.
Websites:
http://climbingjtree.com
http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/
http://www.nps.gov/jotr/activities/climbing/climbing.html
Afterthought: from the time we arrived in J-tree till the time we said our goodbyes you couldn't chisel off grins from our faces with a jackhammer... this place is rad… as you enter the monument you can feel the presence... it's the scenery... it's the desert... it's the history... but what most striking is the contrast between the desert, j-trees, white rock formations and the blue sky... breathtaking... it's like no place I’ve ever seen before…
Climbing in J-tree will definitely either break you or make you head strong... Trad lines are committing and technical... sport routes are runout... and boulders are highball... so next time I come back here I’ll bring a bigger cajuns... what was weird is that we seemed to want to spend a lot of time chilling in the campsite, enjoy the view and soak-in that presence - rather than go climbing... after talking about it we decided that this place makes you at peace, and after a while we stopped fighting it…
Routes Sent: Clean and Jerk 5.10c, Illusion Dweller 5.10b, Pinched Rib 5.10a, Pope's Crack 5.9 (s), Touch and Go 5.9, Sphinxter Quits 5.9 (s), Dogleg 5.8, Sail Away 5.8 (s) Double Cross 5.7 (s), The Caveman V7, Roof Romp V4, Off Camber V4, White Rastafarian V3, Little Sister V3, Gunsmoke V3, Cranckcase V3, Undertow V3, Meat Substitute V2, Out of Touch V2, The Boxer Problem V2, Pigskin V1, Fishbait V1, Grunge V0, Scuttlebutt V0, Hobbit Hole Offwidth V0-
Projects: High Noon V5, Streetcar Name Desire V6/7, Streetcar V5, Leave it to Beaver 5.12-,
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